Sponsored by: Tex-Mex Outdoors, Grim Reaper Broadheads, Spypoint Cameras , Heartland Wildlife Institute, & Atsko Products
If you are considering changing to a mechanical broadhead, here are some things that I recommend .
This is a very controversial issue and has been for over twenty years. I started; shooting Mechanical broadheads back in the late 80’s when Greg Johnson, brought out the Rocket, Buck blaster, had three fixed blades and three mechanical blades that had three inch blades with a three inch cutting diameter and weighed 100 grains. These heads were devastating!
I remember the first big game animal I took with this broadhead was a wary ole Gobbler in Kansas and it was unreal. I shot that Gobbler broadside and cut off one wing on entry and the other when it exited. It looked like I had hit that Gobbler with an Ax. I was hooked on mechanicals from that point on.
Now, I know there is a faction out there that is dead against mechanical heads but remember mechanicals have been proven over the past 22 plus years and have gained a strong following as more and better models have been introduced. I have taken Bull Elk, Mule Deer, Huge Whitetails, Nilgai, Eland, Zebra, Kudu and many other Big Game animals with mechanicals.
Here are some things that I do recommend if you are considering changing to a mechanical broadhead.
- Be certain your bow is tuned to your arrows and that you’re developing at least Sixty (60) foot pounds of Kinetic Energy. ( This is another issue we will visit at a later date) Kinetic Energy is important. Don’t let anyone kid you!
- Make sure, when you decided on a Mechanical Broadhead that you shoot them in practice to make sure they fly like your field points. My personal choice is the 3 blade Mathews Edition Grim Reapers in 100 grains with a 2” cutting diameter. I like big holes and lots of blood on the ground.
- I also make sure that I spin my arrows with the Mechanical broadheads on the arrow to make sure they spin true. If I have an arrow that is wobbling, I go to work and make sure it is spinning straight when it goes into the field. A wobbling arrow could be caused by a bad insert, nock out of alignment or the broadhead just not lining up with your fletching. Be sure to check all of these to get your arrow and broadhead spinning true.
- When in the field, each evening when you are done hunting, pull and inspect every arrow and broadhead as the blades can collect dirt, grim, grit and other debris just being in your quiver. This could not only alter your flight but also cause the blades to not deploy. It’s very important to check your equipment each night after hunting no matter how tired you are.
- Like I said, “I really like the Mathews Edition, Grim Reaper broadheads. But there are many other great mechanicals on the market today so do some investigating and trials before you settle on the one that fits your needs.
I do hope each and every one of you has a great hunting year.
Good Hunting:
Jim Miller
Host of Tex Mex Outdoors TV.
